Antony Lowbridge-Ellis

The Mermaid Resurfaces

Antony Lowbridge-Ellis
The Mermaid Resurfaces
drink like a pirate.jpg

Our repeat visit to the fantastic Mermaid Alley actually came near enough two years to the day of our first experience at the Penzance eatery that mixes inventive and hearty food with fun and fabulous cocktails.

As in our first trip, the staff really made us feel welcome, but this time they really out did themselves by pretty much giving over the whole restaurant to us so that we could sample what those in Penzance can enjoy from today for the first time again since lockdown. 

We arrived just as they finished their cooking, packing and delivering their takeaway food and drink orders. Like many restaurants across the UK, Mermaid Alley has survived through the Covid-19 pandemic by diversifying and allowing their regular customers to order their favourites (including cocktails) to be delivered for enjoyment at home. 

Thursday 6 August 2020 sees Mermaid Alley opening their doors again to customers for sit-down experiences, although, as you might expect, reservations are recommended due to robust Covid-secure measures in place.

As last time, we took seats at the bar, and got acquainted with the woman behind the cocktails. As this was a return visit, we had some favourites which we wanted to try again. We recalled that several of the drinks on the menu (which is changed regularly) had glitter as one of their ingredients. Drinks featuring special effects (smoke, fire, dry ice) are still the rage close to where we live in Birmingham but they're rarely experiences you feel compelled to have more than once. Here at Mermaid Alley, things are different. 

As before, we were drawn, like sailors to sirens, to Mermelza (prosecco, blue Curacao, raspberry vodka, and glitter) and the tequila-based Ariel's Ruin. This time, having got to know Jemela, the co-owner, via Facebook since our last trip, we sipped our drinks and chatted about how she and her colleagues, and Penzance as a whole, had been during the pandemic.

Shortly after the takeaway orders were out the door, we were joined by Mermaid Alley’s second siren, the Chef, who informed us that tonight we’d be sampling some new entrees that she’d rustled up for us, along with some of our old favourites that we’d cooed about on our last visit. It certainly felt really special to be treated to a peek at some of the items which would be on their reopening menu and some of our faves too, like their pulled pork Scotch egg.

Chef also pushed us on some of our established likes too by challenging David to a (fitting perhaps considering the name of the establishment) larger selection of fish dishes than he’d usually be comfortable and even he, who has turned his nose up more than once at most of the sea’s creatures (other than prawns, lobster and crab), was entertained by mackerel cooked in ginger and chilli with lime and shallots.

mackerel.jpg

For our mains, fish continued to be on our special menu with fresh pollock served in a delicious red curry and crab sauce with sweet potato tempura and sharp citrus greens. We enjoyed all the courses tapas style, so shared the beef brisket burger on brioche with onion rings and thick cut chips alongside the pollock. Well, we say tapas style but the the portions were considerably larger!

bricohe burger.jpg

We really did not have room for dessert, which was the case in 2018 too, but were convinced by Jemela to try one of their successes from the takeaway menu and leave with a small pot of their Freakcake - a massive potted Rice Krispy treat with chocolate fudge, marshmallow, whipped white chocolate, cherry and even more indulgent ingredients. Whilst we couldn’t finish it that night, it did make a fantastic snack the day after on our drive back from Cornwall to the Midlands. 

It's rare to find a place where the quality of the food matches the drinks, or vice versa, but at Mermaid Alley they always work in utter symmetry and it is the real reason for  Mermaid Alley’s success: a top chef and a top mixologist decided they'd had enough of working for others and combined their expertise to start their own place. Thus: a perfect balance, each complementing the other.

Mermaid Alley was a serendipitous find during our trip to Penzance in 2018 and it was a must-do for us during our return in 2020. We enjoy eating out and missed it tremendously during the lockdown. As restrictions have eased since early July, we’ve enjoyed going back to some of our favourite hometown bars and restaurants. When we planned our trip to the Scilly Isles and knew we’d need a night or two either end before long car journeys. If we were being truly honest, we stayed in Penzance pretty much so we could have a repeat visit to our friends at Mermaid Alley.

We’re thrilled that the Mermaid has resurfaced and you can find out more about Penzance’s siren eatery, including opening times and menus, at: https://www.facebook.com/mermaidalley/